Fire on the Ganges : Life among the Dead in Banaras by Radhika Iyengar [Paperback]

Fire on the Ganges: Life among the Dead in Banaras by Radhika Iyengar is an evocative exploration of the ancient city of Banaras (also known as Varanasi), situated on the banks of the sacred Ganges River. The book offers a fascinating, deeply personal, and often haunting journey through the city that is both a hub of religious and spiritual significance and a place where life and death are intricately woven together.

In this memoir, Iyengar draws on her experiences living in Banaras to immerse readers in the city's rituals, customs, and its unique approach to death. Banaras is considered one of the holiest cities in Hinduism, where the ultimate goal of many devotees is to die here, as it is believed that dying in Banaras and being cremated on the banks of the Ganges can break the cycle of rebirth and lead to liberation (moksha). The book is rich in detail as it touches on the lives of the people who live among the dead, those who come to die, and the complex intersections of death, spirituality, and daily life.

Through Iyengar’s eyes, readers are taken behind the scenes of the ghats (the steps leading to the river), where the rituals of life and death play out every day. She reflects on the ways in which the city serves as a spiritual center for millions of pilgrims, while also exploring the darker, less glamorous sides of life in Banaras, including the poverty, exploitation, and the complex social hierarchies at play.

The narrative is not just an ethnographic account of the city’s religious practices but also a personal meditation on the nature of existence, faith, and the human condition. Iyengar blends her personal experiences with the profound philosophical and spiritual questions raised by her time in Banaras, making the book a reflective and moving exploration of life, death, and everything in between.

Overall, Fire on the Ganges offers an intimate and multifaceted portrayal of a city that has long been synonymous with spiritual and religious fervor, presenting Banaras as a living, breathing paradox where the sacred and the profane coalesce in a vibrant and sometimes disturbing reality. The book is an excellent choice for readers interested in Indian culture, spirituality, and the deeper philosophical inquiries into life and death.